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Written by Brett Campbell   
Restau-rant
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On to another ethnic cuisine! This issue I explore the offerings of downtown Chinese restaurants.


 

 Regionally speaking this may seem a bit similar to last issue, and I would agree. I’m holding off on searching for the best American food in town because I’d like to believe you Americans can figure that one out on your own. But this time it’s not soup we’re talking about, and be thankful I’m not jumping on the sushi wagon and patronizing you about the elegance of raw meat.

The closest place to campus that’s not a cart is the Panda Café. It’s a cafeteria style situation, where they scoop portions from an array of premade batches, as you point to your selection. The food is comparable but better than the more well-known chain. The people are friendly and there’s a big Bhudda to fondle for luck, if fondling religious idols is your thing. I had the noodles and the pile of fried, candy-coated meet. Surprisingly, I didn’t feel nearly as bad about myself for eating garbage when I was finished. Seriously, if my body is a temple, then I need to stop crapping in the confessional. Enough about that, though. It’s a good place for the cost, its fast, and close to campus. (Panda Café: 1968 SW Broadway)

That said, you need to live a little. Head out to Old Town/China Town and get ready for action. We hit Fong Chong, a place known for its dim sum. This is the term for Chinese cuisine served in small quantities. Nice people come by your table periodically with carts full of small dishes like shrimp toast, gyoza, gao, siu mai, you know what I’m talking about. Everything is very tasty, though likely served cold. Not all places have that issue, as some Chinese dining halls will have the nice carts with built-in heating systems. Still, good is good, and good food should be edible even when cold. So it is here, but be warned – this food is pretty greasy. Just check out the shrimp toast. This is bread topped with shrimp and peas, then battered and deep fried. The bread becomes little more than a sponge to soak up the oils it was cooked in. A bite or two is tasty, but I wouldn’t recommend more. In summary, go experience this place. But never go it alone, and don’t feel pressured every time they come by with a new cart full of stuff. That’s their shtick. (Fong Chong: 18 NW 4th Ave.)

I’ve been to several other places down in Chinatown, such as the Republic Café and House of Louie, but it was a while ago. My memories of those times are enough to keep me from going again. Nicholas Kula chimed in regarding House of Louie.

“They’re pretty good. You just have to know what to order,” states Kula. “I get the almond chicken. Last time I got that it was really good. But it seems like they forget how to make it, because the sauce that comes with it is different every time.” Now that’s a mark of distinction as far as I can tell. House of Louie – where every meal is a surprise! (House of Louie: 331 NW Davis St.)

To round out the downtown Chinese cuisine experience, I went to Seres restaurant and bar in the swanky Pearl district. I have been here several times and had my turn around the menu. Everything is rich but not greasy, very flavorful, and consistent. This is the kind of place you can take your parents when they come to town for your annual dorm audit. The chopsticks are steel, the cocktails are strong, and the atmosphere stifles the urge to start arguments. Plus, with these prices, it’s better to get someone else on the hook for the tab. (Seres: 1105 NW Lovejoy St.)

For this and other Restau-rant articles, come to therearguard.org. See you next year.

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